Malaysia Travel Guide:
Eight months after the Malaysian central bank, Bank Negara Malaysia (BNM), announced new incentives to boost the presence of foreign financial institutions in the predominantly Muslim country, Malaysian officials continue to lobby for fresh investments in an area which is considered a fast emerging cornerstone for the economy.
Since 1983, when the concept of Islamic banking began to take root in Malaysia, Islamic banking assets have soared to about $34bn, equivalent to almost 13 per cent of the market.
But Malaysian officials say Malaysia’s success also has to be measured in terms of the fast growth of its Islamic corporate bond market. At about $36bn, this is equivalent to almost 48 per cent of the total corporate bonds issued in the country, while the emergence of an Islamic insurance market with a size of $1.7bn places the sector ahead of many other countries.
“We have put in place a comprehensive Islamic financial system that includes the legal, Sharia and regulatory infrastructure, supported by a diversity of players and a wide range of products and services. Our capital market has depth and breadth that is supported by an active secondary bond market,” said Dato’ Mohd Razif bin Abd. Kadir, deputy governor of BNM, in Dubai this month.
Malaysian officials are often keen to emphasise the strengths of the country’s economy – such as its liquid foreign currency reserves of about $91bn and a saving rate of 37 per cent of gross domestic product – as key factors which will support the entry of new foreign investors into its Islamic banking and finance related businesses.
Analysts such as Mohammad Daud Bakar, a prominent Malaysian scholar on Islamic finance and head of the Kuala Lumpur-based International Institute of Islamic Finance, share the official enthusiasm. But he says the transition to making Malaysia a global centre of Islamic finance will require it to meet challenges such as establishing a “synergy between Malaysian and non-Malaysian human resource”.
Additionally, he says Malaysian bankers will have to learn to cope with transactions in currencies other than the Malaysian ringgit – a key medium for Islamic banking transactions so far.
Western bankers familiar with Malaysia point towards a few of the key gaps which must be overcome by the Islamic banking sector. One is to oversee a faster flow of investments from the oil rich Middle East region, which is presently flush with capital in the wake of the high oil prices of recent years.
But critics note that Malaysia also faces a difficult challenge convincing overseas Muslims, especially those in the Middle East, of the credibility of its code of Islamic Sharia law. Unlike the Middle East, which has a more diverse set of interpretations through the work of different scholars, Malaysia has tried to follow a more uniform code.
“For an Arab Muslim who is being asked to invest in Malaysia, one question is, how far is the Malaysian view of Islamic finance as pure as in the Middle East,” says a senior Arab banker. “This is a consistent theme in in-house discussions [on Malaysia].”
However, Malaysian central bank officials disagree. The country’s ventures into Islamic finance over the past two decades and more have enabled it to establish a large enough community of bankers exposed to Islamic finance, helping overcome a key challenge faced elsewhere.
“Malaysia is a largely Muslim country. Our experience has given us an edge over many others. We are well positioned to do things which I am not sure others are geared up to do just yet,” says a BNM official. “Ultimately, the quality of service has to count much for clients and that’s where we are well prepared.”
For the moment, the jury is out as many experts believe that Malaysia’s future will be settled with the outcome of its move to attract foreign investors in the years to come. Although the Middle East is being lobbied by Malaysia as the natural origin for future investors, bankers in the region argue that there are few signs of liquidity moving from there to the Asian continent. This follows a flight of Muslim capital from the western world, most notably in the US, following the backlash against Muslims after the New York attacks.
“If large scale liquidity leaves the Middle East, people would probably look at worldwide destinations including many western ones,” says the Arab banker. “A country like Malaysia may have attractions but it can’t be the main destination for us.”
Saturday, June 2, 2007
Friday, June 1, 2007
Malaysia Trip Report
Prelude
We first traveled to Malaysia in November 2000 but back then we only had a short stop in Kuala Lumpur. This time we also wanted to try out a couple of beach destinations. We decided to go to Perhentian because the word was that it was a true paradise for snorkeling and diving and that it was not yet ruined by mass tourism.
Planning the trip
Perhetian is made up of two islands…Perhentian Kecil (small island) and Perhentian Besar (big island). The small island seems to be more targeted towards backpackers and has cheaper accommodation while the bigger island has some resorts. We looked at pictures at web pages like perhentianisland.info , perhentian-island.com and perhentian.com.my and in the end we decided to go for Perhentian Island resort. In the end we booked it through perhentianisland.com.my and we paid 720 RM per person for 4 days/3 nights where the following was covered:
- return boat transfer.
- welcome drink.
- 3 nights accommodation (air condition/hot shower).
- 3 breakfast, 3 lunch, 3 dinner
- 2 snorkeling trips around Perhentian Island with snorkeling equipment (mask, snorkel, guide and boat during the trips ).
- drinking water
- marine park fees surcharge
We also paid 110 RM to get a round trip by taxi from Kota Bharu Airport to Kuala Besut Jetty.
To get from KL to the island we decided to fly from KL to Kota Bharu airport. We bought tickets online on Malaysia Airlines and we paid 388 RM for the round trip for both of us. Remember that you can also use AirAsia to get to Kota Bharu. We chose to fly Malaysia Airlines as the flight times were better for us.
Trip from KL to Perhentian
Map of Perhentian Islands
Map of Perhentian Islands. We stayed at Perhentian Island Resort on Besar.
After a few days in KL we left for Perhentian on Wednesday March 22nd. Meena was kind enough to drop us of at KL Sentral and we took the KLIA Express to the airport. If you are flying Malaysia Airlines (and maybe other airlines as well) you can check in already at KL Sentral :-) This was an excellent service and it was great to get rid of the Samsonite suitcases already at the train station.
The flight from KL to Kota Bharu only took about 1 hour so before we knew it we landed on the tiny airport called Sultan Ismail Petra in the province Kelantan. After we picked up our suitcases we found our driver…it was not that hard in the small airport :-) He was waiting for us with a sign with my name on it. He led us over to this old Mercedes that must have been from the 70s or 80s :-) Taxi taking us to the jetty in BesutWe did of course get a bit skeptical when seeing this old car and the lack of safety belts in the back seat but there was not that many options. The drive from the airport to the jetty in Besut (located in the state of Terengganu) was about 45 minutes and it was pretty interesting.A butcher along the road Apart from a few times where the driver tried to overtake cars and we felt we were about to meet our maker, we had time to look at the view as we drove along. It was pretty easy to see that the state of Kelantan is very different from the modern city of KL. It looked like it was a pretty poor area: the houses seemed very basic, people had cows tied to a pole in their front yard, chicken/goats were roaming freely, the butcher sold his ware in the direct sunlight on a so refrigerated street corner etc.
The jetty at BesutWe finally arrived at Besut and I went to the office of perhentianisland.com.my to pay, in cash, for the stay at Perhentian Island resort. We were given all the papers and a few big bottles of drinking water that we could have during our stay on the island. We had to wait for the boat so we were invited by the guy that runs Perhentian Sunny Travel to sit down in the shade and he bought us some cold drinks while we chatted. In the end we got to board the small boat together with about 15 others and the two huge outboard engines roared as we made our way out to open water. The trip out to the islands took 30-40 minutes but I guess this depends a lot on the weather. When we went out there the waves were big so he had to slow down from time to time as the water was splashing.
Tip! If you are sensitive to noise bring a couple of earplugs. The roar of the engines can be quite loud & remember to take your seasickness pills!
A bit about Perhentian Island Resort and the room
The bed at Perhentian Island ResortWe arrived at Perhentian Island resort in the afternoon and we were met by a guy that took care of our luggage. When we arrived at the jetty we were not really sure that we were on the right place. There was a beach but it didn’t look like there were that many rooms - seeing a sign with the resort’s name clarified that issue. The check in was quick and we got room 205. The room itself was pretty anonymous. Each hut contained 4 rooms and we were located on the second row from the beach. When I first came into the room I was like “Where is the TV”…hehe…I know it is sad. I guess I was just expecting a TV when we were staying at one of the (reputedly) best resorts on the island.
The desk and mini bar in our roomThe walls were recently painted white and we got a pretty big bed, a wardrobe, a desk and chair, a small mini bar (which was empty) and a water boiler with some coffee and tea. We had air condition in our room but it didn’t seem to be fully operational. We could e.g. not turn it to low but at least we got cooling. One of the bungalows at Perhentian Island ResortThere are not that many hotels on the islands that have this option. The bathroom was small but it was tiled and contained a sink, toilet and a bathtub. We could take a shower in the bathtub but there was no shower curtain so the water pretty much splashed everywhere. I did mention this to the reception and they said they would fix it but they never did. The whole hut seemed to be a bit lopsided and the door to the bathroom was hard to close and it swung open automatically. We also had a small porch where there were two chairs and a table.
The pool at Perhentian Island ResortThe resort facilities included a pool (I guess the only one on the island) that was never in use as far as I could tell…well, I jumped into it once just to test it out :-). The lobby is located in a big open building which also contained the restaurant where we had all our meals. The breakfast included warm food like beans, hash browns, pancakes, omelette, beef bacon (remember that Malaysia is a Muslim country) and also a selection of warm local dishes like nasi goring, rice porridge etc. Breakfast at Perhentian Island ResortIt was also possible to get the usual treat of toast, cereal and fruit such as pineapple, watermelon etc. There was also juice and coffee/tea to choose from. The coffee was the darkest coffee that I have ever seen :-)
There is a small shop across from the restaurant where, for a fairly hefty price, you can get the essentials such as sun cream, shirts, disposable cameras etc. Between the restaurant and the beach there was a nice tiled area which incorporated a bar. I’m not sure that they had much more than beer on sale. I had a few Tiger beers and they coast 10 RM per can.
Activities on Perhentian Island
The beach at Perhentian Island resortSo what is there to do on a small jungle island? Well, let me just say that if you don’t like sun, sand, beach and water you should probably go somewhere else :-) The beach at Perhentian Island Resort is very nice…I guess it is 300-400 meters long and the sand is fine and powdery. March is just the opening of the season at Perhentian and many of the resorts actually close during the monsoon season. We did have a bit of bad weather when we went there but we still had a great time on our snorkeling trips.
Pathway leading to Coral ViewAs the map of Perhentian indicates there are resorts like pearls on a string and they are connected with wooden stairs and pathways if you want to go over and say hi to the neighbor resort. We never ventured any further than Coral View located right next to Perhentian Island Resort :-) . It didn’t take us long before we started checking out the warm clear water. We started snorkeling right from the beach but we found out that it is of course better to snorkel from a boat.
Tip! Bring you own snorkel gear to make sure that you get good and comfortable equipment. Having a mask that fits is important - poor Nikki needs to either get a facial reconstruction or a kids mask because hers kept on flooding or fogging. And spitting into the google works better than anti-fogging spray!
Nikki in the boat on one of the snorkeling trips at Perhentian IslandThe snorkeling trips we had around the island were great. We started out by going to a place called Shark point…not a good place to start if you have seen movies like Jaws. But from what I understand the sharks that you can see there is first of all harmless reef sharks. When we were there I only saw a shark briefly as it was swimming away from me. But the snorkeling itself was great…lots of colorful fish, corals in every possible colors etc. If you haven’t tried snorkeling yet you are missing out on something. It is incredible to just lay in the water and watch everything below you.
View to Perhentian Island Resort from the jettyOn the way back after our first snorkeling trip our boat driver stopped as he was seeing ripples on the surface and shadows in the water. I didn’t see a thing so at first I thought he was pulling our leg. But he seemed pretty determined so I thought he was spotting manta rays on the sea bed. All of a sudden he told us to get in and I tried to slide into the water as quietly as I could (I’m not exactly like one of those slim Chinese divers when I get in). It turned out that it was a huge turtle that was eating away at the seabed. It was amazing to dive down 2-3 meters to take a closer look at it. At that point I wished that I had bought an underwater house for my camera.
Tip! If you are going to a place like this to snorkel, bring along a underwater camera. The disposable ones are not very good (we found that out at the Maldives. If I were to buy now I would buy a Olympus mju 720SW which is supposedly waterproof down to 3 meters - still considering buying it.
View to the beachTip: Snorkeling in the tropics means that you are faced with a strong sun. Remember to put on a good sun screen (I used Riemann P20) and when you snorkel it is a good idea to have a surfer vest or light coloured t-shirt and some protection for your head as well…at least for guys like me where the hair is not as thick as it used to be :-)
We also snorkeled from the boat at the rocks that you see on the left hand side when you stand on the beach at Perhentian Island Resort. The many colours of the coral amazed me…red, blue, green, purple etc. Snorkeling is hard work …after snorkeling at three different spots from the boat we were ready for a break - a bit of relaxation on the beach.
The beach bar at Perhentian Island ResortEvening entertainment at Perhentian Resort is pretty limited. We stuck to the preset menu that was defined in our package deal and that was, well … pretty boring actually. Nikki enjoying fruit at Perhentian IslandI think they should have served Malaysian inspired dishes instead of serving their take on western food. After dinner we would just relax in the beach bar. I can’t say that it was really happening…the bartender seemed to be pretty bored so he used every opportunity to come over for a chat when Nikki was not at the table.
Tip! As there is not much to do I would recommend that you bring along some board games/cards, snacks as there is not that much on sale and mosquito spray to avoid getting eaten alive :-)
View from the beach bar to the beachWe did a morning snorkel trip as well. We started out on a place north of Perhentian Island Resort. We were almost alone in the area…there was only one other couple there. It was a bit funny watching this other couple (I think they were Japanese) as it seemed like it was the first time the girl was snorkeling and she didn’t seem that comfortable with it. Again the snorkeling was great. But at this point it seemed like we were getting stung by something in the water. It felt just like when we are getting stung by jelly fish back home and Nikki was a bit freaked out when she swam right into a cloud of tendrils on her way back to the boat.
View from our bungalowWe also went to a beautiful small beach where it was possible to snorkel right off the beach and again there were lots of colorful fish and corals. And the best thing is that we were more or less alone in the water. On some snorkeling trips like to Phi Phi a few years ago it felt like we were on a trip with way too many people. I also have to mention a third place we snorkeled at. When we got into the water there were lots and lots of colorful fish and at this place they seemed more curious than on the other place. Normally when you move your hands towards the fish they swim off but this kind was not easily scared. These fish were right up in our snorkel masks and we’re pretty sure they were nibbling on us :-)
The return of Godzilla – the local wild life
When we first got off the transfer boat at the Resort there was an amazing noise coming from the jungle. At first I thought it was an engine or generator of sorts on the verge of a break down. But then I realized that the sound was coming from crickets and other jungle winged creatures. Check out this video to get some clue of what I’m talking about. From time to time I get questions from other travelers that are going to different tropical destinations and they ask if there are any creepy crawlies where they are going. On Perhentian Island I would say that we were closer to nature that we have ever been :-) It felt like the humans were just occupying the small strip of land ... Lizard out for a walk at Perhentian Islandthe rest of the island is the domain of the animals and insects. As we experienced when out of nowhere a Comodor-like lizard crawled waddled (yes, there was definitely a waddle there) out from behind a bush in front of our room. I followed it with the camera and another guest also picked up the camera. Nikki got a bit nervous and, as she was backing up into the room, she mentioned this to a couple of passing staff members and all they said was “It is good meat” :-). As usual in warmer climates you get visited by geckos at night (where do they hide during the day?). One gecko (we gave him the nickname “George”) even got into the room and found its way to the bathroom.
Apart from that we saw squirrels, bats flying by and pretty big spiders spinning webs as we walked around our resort area. We also saw oversized ants - they were huge - and even larger snails crawling across the tiles near the beach bar etc. There was also a rather large beetle that seemed to be a bit too heavy because we only ever saw them crash landing. And of course…there are mosquitoes. There was one night, around dusk, when I went outside to spray on some mosquito spray and by the time I had covered the front I had gotten 3 bites on my back!! How rude is that?
We bought some mosquito bite cream at Besut called Krim. Good name as krim is the Norwegian word for crime. But the only criminal element in this cream was the color…it was bright yellow and impossible to rub off once applied! So after a couple of days on the island I was a colorful person…a bit of sun burn on some parts of the body, yellow cream on other parts
Jungle trekking
Gard on the jungle trekIt is also possible to trek across the island. It was strange to come from the beach area where it was pretty warm and humid to the jungle where it was even warmer and humid. So we had not walked very far before I was soaked in sweat. We didn’t go all the way to the other side of the island but we did reach the top. Once you are in the jungle it is natural to start thinking about what creepy crawlies that might be using the opportunity to catch a ride as you walk by. But we didn’t come back to the beach with any unwanted guests - that we know of …
Time to leave
Perhentian Island Resort seen from the boatOn Saturday March 25th it was time to leave already. We got up at the crack of dawn and walked around a little while we waited for the boat to pick us up. This time we were able to squeeze in 17 adults and 5 children. The sea was very calm so we got back to land within 30 minutes. Back on land we were met by Sunny again and he got us a cab to take us back to the airport. This time we got an old Toyota that made the old Mercedes that we had from the airport to Besut look like a luxury limousine. I have to say a couple of words about this car….it is possibly the worst wreck that I have ever been in and it was just hilarious. Local fishers at BesutThe driver wanted to roll up the windows but the only thing that was keeping the window up was a piece of paper folded together. So I had to squeeze the window up while the driver re-adjusted the piece of paper. Wires seemed to hang everywhere under the dashboard. The car seemed to be an automatic to start off with but turned out to be a manual afterall and it didn’t feel like there was any suspension left so the car felt really unstable….so I was getting a bit nervous when the driver pushed it up to 120 km/h even after we assured him that we were in no hurry :-). After a while there was this constant sound coming from the car and he eventually stopped to investigate but he never found out what was wrong. But we made it back to the airport at Kota Bharu and off we went to KL.
Conclusion
The trip to Perhentian was a bit of an "adventure"…planes; worn out taxis, speed boats etc. It is a bit of a mission to get there so this is not a destination that I’m going to recommend to families, people that are not used to traveling (or people with a bad heart…remember the taxi description).
The small road between the bungalowsWe have been to places like Thailand and Maldives so it is hard not to compare this destination with other places that we have been to. You might get a sense from the description above that I was not totally impressed with the resort itself. The room itself was not impressive at all but you have to take into account that the Perhentian Islands are a couple of remote jungle islands with no roads and no major development. Hole at the side of the poolIn that respect I guess we were lucky to have electricity, air condition and a pool in the first place. I didn’t mind that the room was a bit basic but it seemed like the whole resort was a bit half finished and didn’t look that well maintained. A few examples are the big hole located at the edge of the pool, traces of bonfires around the area, a noisy and totally stripped mini-cargo van that was driving equipment and stuff around on the tiny pathways on the resort etc. I think that Perhentian Island resort (and other resorts) could learn a thing or two by visiting resorts in the Maldives to get some ideas.
But the beach and snorkeling at Perhentian were amazing. The snorkeling is probably some of the best snorkeling that we have ever done and seeing a big turtle made my day at least. So maybe it is better to keep the resorts here a bit “basic” and to keep the tourist invasion at bay by making it hard to reach. But if you want a bit of adventure take your time to visit Perhentian Island.
We first traveled to Malaysia in November 2000 but back then we only had a short stop in Kuala Lumpur. This time we also wanted to try out a couple of beach destinations. We decided to go to Perhentian because the word was that it was a true paradise for snorkeling and diving and that it was not yet ruined by mass tourism.
Planning the trip
Perhetian is made up of two islands…Perhentian Kecil (small island) and Perhentian Besar (big island). The small island seems to be more targeted towards backpackers and has cheaper accommodation while the bigger island has some resorts. We looked at pictures at web pages like perhentianisland.info , perhentian-island.com and perhentian.com.my and in the end we decided to go for Perhentian Island resort. In the end we booked it through perhentianisland.com.my and we paid 720 RM per person for 4 days/3 nights where the following was covered:
- return boat transfer.
- welcome drink.
- 3 nights accommodation (air condition/hot shower).
- 3 breakfast, 3 lunch, 3 dinner
- 2 snorkeling trips around Perhentian Island with snorkeling equipment (mask, snorkel, guide and boat during the trips ).
- drinking water
- marine park fees surcharge
We also paid 110 RM to get a round trip by taxi from Kota Bharu Airport to Kuala Besut Jetty.
To get from KL to the island we decided to fly from KL to Kota Bharu airport. We bought tickets online on Malaysia Airlines and we paid 388 RM for the round trip for both of us. Remember that you can also use AirAsia to get to Kota Bharu. We chose to fly Malaysia Airlines as the flight times were better for us.
Trip from KL to Perhentian
Map of Perhentian Islands
Map of Perhentian Islands. We stayed at Perhentian Island Resort on Besar.
After a few days in KL we left for Perhentian on Wednesday March 22nd. Meena was kind enough to drop us of at KL Sentral and we took the KLIA Express to the airport. If you are flying Malaysia Airlines (and maybe other airlines as well) you can check in already at KL Sentral :-) This was an excellent service and it was great to get rid of the Samsonite suitcases already at the train station.
The flight from KL to Kota Bharu only took about 1 hour so before we knew it we landed on the tiny airport called Sultan Ismail Petra in the province Kelantan. After we picked up our suitcases we found our driver…it was not that hard in the small airport :-) He was waiting for us with a sign with my name on it. He led us over to this old Mercedes that must have been from the 70s or 80s :-) Taxi taking us to the jetty in BesutWe did of course get a bit skeptical when seeing this old car and the lack of safety belts in the back seat but there was not that many options. The drive from the airport to the jetty in Besut (located in the state of Terengganu) was about 45 minutes and it was pretty interesting.A butcher along the road Apart from a few times where the driver tried to overtake cars and we felt we were about to meet our maker, we had time to look at the view as we drove along. It was pretty easy to see that the state of Kelantan is very different from the modern city of KL. It looked like it was a pretty poor area: the houses seemed very basic, people had cows tied to a pole in their front yard, chicken/goats were roaming freely, the butcher sold his ware in the direct sunlight on a so refrigerated street corner etc.
The jetty at BesutWe finally arrived at Besut and I went to the office of perhentianisland.com.my to pay, in cash, for the stay at Perhentian Island resort. We were given all the papers and a few big bottles of drinking water that we could have during our stay on the island. We had to wait for the boat so we were invited by the guy that runs Perhentian Sunny Travel to sit down in the shade and he bought us some cold drinks while we chatted. In the end we got to board the small boat together with about 15 others and the two huge outboard engines roared as we made our way out to open water. The trip out to the islands took 30-40 minutes but I guess this depends a lot on the weather. When we went out there the waves were big so he had to slow down from time to time as the water was splashing.
Tip! If you are sensitive to noise bring a couple of earplugs. The roar of the engines can be quite loud & remember to take your seasickness pills!
A bit about Perhentian Island Resort and the room
The bed at Perhentian Island ResortWe arrived at Perhentian Island resort in the afternoon and we were met by a guy that took care of our luggage. When we arrived at the jetty we were not really sure that we were on the right place. There was a beach but it didn’t look like there were that many rooms - seeing a sign with the resort’s name clarified that issue. The check in was quick and we got room 205. The room itself was pretty anonymous. Each hut contained 4 rooms and we were located on the second row from the beach. When I first came into the room I was like “Where is the TV”…hehe…I know it is sad. I guess I was just expecting a TV when we were staying at one of the (reputedly) best resorts on the island.
The desk and mini bar in our roomThe walls were recently painted white and we got a pretty big bed, a wardrobe, a desk and chair, a small mini bar (which was empty) and a water boiler with some coffee and tea. We had air condition in our room but it didn’t seem to be fully operational. We could e.g. not turn it to low but at least we got cooling. One of the bungalows at Perhentian Island ResortThere are not that many hotels on the islands that have this option. The bathroom was small but it was tiled and contained a sink, toilet and a bathtub. We could take a shower in the bathtub but there was no shower curtain so the water pretty much splashed everywhere. I did mention this to the reception and they said they would fix it but they never did. The whole hut seemed to be a bit lopsided and the door to the bathroom was hard to close and it swung open automatically. We also had a small porch where there were two chairs and a table.
The pool at Perhentian Island ResortThe resort facilities included a pool (I guess the only one on the island) that was never in use as far as I could tell…well, I jumped into it once just to test it out :-). The lobby is located in a big open building which also contained the restaurant where we had all our meals. The breakfast included warm food like beans, hash browns, pancakes, omelette, beef bacon (remember that Malaysia is a Muslim country) and also a selection of warm local dishes like nasi goring, rice porridge etc. Breakfast at Perhentian Island ResortIt was also possible to get the usual treat of toast, cereal and fruit such as pineapple, watermelon etc. There was also juice and coffee/tea to choose from. The coffee was the darkest coffee that I have ever seen :-)
There is a small shop across from the restaurant where, for a fairly hefty price, you can get the essentials such as sun cream, shirts, disposable cameras etc. Between the restaurant and the beach there was a nice tiled area which incorporated a bar. I’m not sure that they had much more than beer on sale. I had a few Tiger beers and they coast 10 RM per can.
Activities on Perhentian Island
The beach at Perhentian Island resortSo what is there to do on a small jungle island? Well, let me just say that if you don’t like sun, sand, beach and water you should probably go somewhere else :-) The beach at Perhentian Island Resort is very nice…I guess it is 300-400 meters long and the sand is fine and powdery. March is just the opening of the season at Perhentian and many of the resorts actually close during the monsoon season. We did have a bit of bad weather when we went there but we still had a great time on our snorkeling trips.
Pathway leading to Coral ViewAs the map of Perhentian indicates there are resorts like pearls on a string and they are connected with wooden stairs and pathways if you want to go over and say hi to the neighbor resort. We never ventured any further than Coral View located right next to Perhentian Island Resort :-) . It didn’t take us long before we started checking out the warm clear water. We started snorkeling right from the beach but we found out that it is of course better to snorkel from a boat.
Tip! Bring you own snorkel gear to make sure that you get good and comfortable equipment. Having a mask that fits is important - poor Nikki needs to either get a facial reconstruction or a kids mask because hers kept on flooding or fogging. And spitting into the google works better than anti-fogging spray!
Nikki in the boat on one of the snorkeling trips at Perhentian IslandThe snorkeling trips we had around the island were great. We started out by going to a place called Shark point…not a good place to start if you have seen movies like Jaws. But from what I understand the sharks that you can see there is first of all harmless reef sharks. When we were there I only saw a shark briefly as it was swimming away from me. But the snorkeling itself was great…lots of colorful fish, corals in every possible colors etc. If you haven’t tried snorkeling yet you are missing out on something. It is incredible to just lay in the water and watch everything below you.
View to Perhentian Island Resort from the jettyOn the way back after our first snorkeling trip our boat driver stopped as he was seeing ripples on the surface and shadows in the water. I didn’t see a thing so at first I thought he was pulling our leg. But he seemed pretty determined so I thought he was spotting manta rays on the sea bed. All of a sudden he told us to get in and I tried to slide into the water as quietly as I could (I’m not exactly like one of those slim Chinese divers when I get in). It turned out that it was a huge turtle that was eating away at the seabed. It was amazing to dive down 2-3 meters to take a closer look at it. At that point I wished that I had bought an underwater house for my camera.
Tip! If you are going to a place like this to snorkel, bring along a underwater camera. The disposable ones are not very good (we found that out at the Maldives. If I were to buy now I would buy a Olympus mju 720SW which is supposedly waterproof down to 3 meters - still considering buying it.
View to the beachTip: Snorkeling in the tropics means that you are faced with a strong sun. Remember to put on a good sun screen (I used Riemann P20) and when you snorkel it is a good idea to have a surfer vest or light coloured t-shirt and some protection for your head as well…at least for guys like me where the hair is not as thick as it used to be :-)
We also snorkeled from the boat at the rocks that you see on the left hand side when you stand on the beach at Perhentian Island Resort. The many colours of the coral amazed me…red, blue, green, purple etc. Snorkeling is hard work …after snorkeling at three different spots from the boat we were ready for a break - a bit of relaxation on the beach.
The beach bar at Perhentian Island ResortEvening entertainment at Perhentian Resort is pretty limited. We stuck to the preset menu that was defined in our package deal and that was, well … pretty boring actually. Nikki enjoying fruit at Perhentian IslandI think they should have served Malaysian inspired dishes instead of serving their take on western food. After dinner we would just relax in the beach bar. I can’t say that it was really happening…the bartender seemed to be pretty bored so he used every opportunity to come over for a chat when Nikki was not at the table.
Tip! As there is not much to do I would recommend that you bring along some board games/cards, snacks as there is not that much on sale and mosquito spray to avoid getting eaten alive :-)
View from the beach bar to the beachWe did a morning snorkel trip as well. We started out on a place north of Perhentian Island Resort. We were almost alone in the area…there was only one other couple there. It was a bit funny watching this other couple (I think they were Japanese) as it seemed like it was the first time the girl was snorkeling and she didn’t seem that comfortable with it. Again the snorkeling was great. But at this point it seemed like we were getting stung by something in the water. It felt just like when we are getting stung by jelly fish back home and Nikki was a bit freaked out when she swam right into a cloud of tendrils on her way back to the boat.
View from our bungalowWe also went to a beautiful small beach where it was possible to snorkel right off the beach and again there were lots of colorful fish and corals. And the best thing is that we were more or less alone in the water. On some snorkeling trips like to Phi Phi a few years ago it felt like we were on a trip with way too many people. I also have to mention a third place we snorkeled at. When we got into the water there were lots and lots of colorful fish and at this place they seemed more curious than on the other place. Normally when you move your hands towards the fish they swim off but this kind was not easily scared. These fish were right up in our snorkel masks and we’re pretty sure they were nibbling on us :-)
The return of Godzilla – the local wild life
When we first got off the transfer boat at the Resort there was an amazing noise coming from the jungle. At first I thought it was an engine or generator of sorts on the verge of a break down. But then I realized that the sound was coming from crickets and other jungle winged creatures. Check out this video to get some clue of what I’m talking about. From time to time I get questions from other travelers that are going to different tropical destinations and they ask if there are any creepy crawlies where they are going. On Perhentian Island I would say that we were closer to nature that we have ever been :-) It felt like the humans were just occupying the small strip of land ... Lizard out for a walk at Perhentian Islandthe rest of the island is the domain of the animals and insects. As we experienced when out of nowhere a Comodor-like lizard crawled waddled (yes, there was definitely a waddle there) out from behind a bush in front of our room. I followed it with the camera and another guest also picked up the camera. Nikki got a bit nervous and, as she was backing up into the room, she mentioned this to a couple of passing staff members and all they said was “It is good meat” :-). As usual in warmer climates you get visited by geckos at night (where do they hide during the day?). One gecko (we gave him the nickname “George”) even got into the room and found its way to the bathroom.
Apart from that we saw squirrels, bats flying by and pretty big spiders spinning webs as we walked around our resort area. We also saw oversized ants - they were huge - and even larger snails crawling across the tiles near the beach bar etc. There was also a rather large beetle that seemed to be a bit too heavy because we only ever saw them crash landing. And of course…there are mosquitoes. There was one night, around dusk, when I went outside to spray on some mosquito spray and by the time I had covered the front I had gotten 3 bites on my back!! How rude is that?
We bought some mosquito bite cream at Besut called Krim. Good name as krim is the Norwegian word for crime. But the only criminal element in this cream was the color…it was bright yellow and impossible to rub off once applied! So after a couple of days on the island I was a colorful person…a bit of sun burn on some parts of the body, yellow cream on other parts
Jungle trekking
Gard on the jungle trekIt is also possible to trek across the island. It was strange to come from the beach area where it was pretty warm and humid to the jungle where it was even warmer and humid. So we had not walked very far before I was soaked in sweat. We didn’t go all the way to the other side of the island but we did reach the top. Once you are in the jungle it is natural to start thinking about what creepy crawlies that might be using the opportunity to catch a ride as you walk by. But we didn’t come back to the beach with any unwanted guests - that we know of …
Time to leave
Perhentian Island Resort seen from the boatOn Saturday March 25th it was time to leave already. We got up at the crack of dawn and walked around a little while we waited for the boat to pick us up. This time we were able to squeeze in 17 adults and 5 children. The sea was very calm so we got back to land within 30 minutes. Back on land we were met by Sunny again and he got us a cab to take us back to the airport. This time we got an old Toyota that made the old Mercedes that we had from the airport to Besut look like a luxury limousine. I have to say a couple of words about this car….it is possibly the worst wreck that I have ever been in and it was just hilarious. Local fishers at BesutThe driver wanted to roll up the windows but the only thing that was keeping the window up was a piece of paper folded together. So I had to squeeze the window up while the driver re-adjusted the piece of paper. Wires seemed to hang everywhere under the dashboard. The car seemed to be an automatic to start off with but turned out to be a manual afterall and it didn’t feel like there was any suspension left so the car felt really unstable….so I was getting a bit nervous when the driver pushed it up to 120 km/h even after we assured him that we were in no hurry :-). After a while there was this constant sound coming from the car and he eventually stopped to investigate but he never found out what was wrong. But we made it back to the airport at Kota Bharu and off we went to KL.
Conclusion
The trip to Perhentian was a bit of an "adventure"…planes; worn out taxis, speed boats etc. It is a bit of a mission to get there so this is not a destination that I’m going to recommend to families, people that are not used to traveling (or people with a bad heart…remember the taxi description).
The small road between the bungalowsWe have been to places like Thailand and Maldives so it is hard not to compare this destination with other places that we have been to. You might get a sense from the description above that I was not totally impressed with the resort itself. The room itself was not impressive at all but you have to take into account that the Perhentian Islands are a couple of remote jungle islands with no roads and no major development. Hole at the side of the poolIn that respect I guess we were lucky to have electricity, air condition and a pool in the first place. I didn’t mind that the room was a bit basic but it seemed like the whole resort was a bit half finished and didn’t look that well maintained. A few examples are the big hole located at the edge of the pool, traces of bonfires around the area, a noisy and totally stripped mini-cargo van that was driving equipment and stuff around on the tiny pathways on the resort etc. I think that Perhentian Island resort (and other resorts) could learn a thing or two by visiting resorts in the Maldives to get some ideas.
But the beach and snorkeling at Perhentian were amazing. The snorkeling is probably some of the best snorkeling that we have ever done and seeing a big turtle made my day at least. So maybe it is better to keep the resorts here a bit “basic” and to keep the tourist invasion at bay by making it hard to reach. But if you want a bit of adventure take your time to visit Perhentian Island.
Thursday, May 31, 2007
Malaysia 48 Hrs
WHY GO NOW?
KL - as it is invariably known - has blossomed from a colonial backwater into one of Asia's great cities. Yet amid the high-rises, you can still find a strong sense of history. And if food is important to you, the Malaysian capital offers sheer indulgence.
TOUCH DOWN
Malaysia Airlines (0870 607 9090; www.malaysia-airlines.com), flies daily from Heathrow and four times a week from Manchester to Kuala Lumpur International Airport (KLIA). Emirates (0870 243 2222; www.emirates.com) has connections in Dubai from Gatwick, Heathrow, Birmingham, Manchester and Glasgow. Thomson Worldwide can arrange two-night B &B packages at the Federal Hotel for £604 per person (0800 197 1917; www.thomsonworldwide.co.uk).
KLIA is 28 minutes from Sentral station (1) on the KLIAekspres; a one-way ticket costs 35 Malaysian ringgits (£5) (00 603 2267 8000; www.KLIAekspres.com). The bus (00 603 6203 3064) costs RM25 (£3.50) one-way, RM45 (£6.50) return. Taxis - pre-booked at the desk near the exit - cost around RM70 (£10).
GET YOUR BEARINGS
KL has several distinct districts, notably Chinatown, Little India and the historic quarter where the Klang and Gumbak rivers meet. The upmarket hotels and shops are in the "Golden Triangle" (between Jalan Sultan Ismail, Jalan Bukit Bintang and Jalan Ampang), with cheaper options around Chinatown. There is a tourist information centre (00 603 2274 3125; www.tourism.gov.my) at Sentral station (1). For details of what's on, pick up a free copy of PM (00 603 2297 0999; www.pmmag.com.my), which is available in hotels and restaurants.
CHECK IN
For luxury on the cheap try the J W Marriott (2) at 183 Jalan Bukit Bintang (00 603 2715 9000; www.marriott.com), part of the exclusive Star Hill mall. Doubles start at RM368 (£52), room only. The Renaissance (3), at the corner of Jalan Sultan Ismail and Jalan Ampang (00 603 2164 8877; www.renaissance-kul.com), offers a two-night weekend package without breakfast for RM224 (£32).
More modest accommodation can be found near Sentral station, at the YMCA (4) at 95 Jalan Padang Belia (00 603 2274 1439; www.ymcakl.com). A double here costs RM80 (£11), with breakfast.
TAKE A VIEW
The 421m high, Menara Kuala Lumpur (5) is the fourth-tallest telecommunications tower in the world (00 603 2020 5448; www.menarakl.com.my). The observation deck at 276m is open 9am-10pm daily; your RM15 (£2) ticket includes the loan of binoculars and an audio tour. While you're in the area, explore Kuala Lumpur's nine-hectare Bukit Nanas Forest Reserve, starting at the Forest Information Centre (6) at 240 Bukit Nanas (00 603 2616 4488; 7am-6pm daily; free). You won't spot a tiger, but there are exotic insects and plants aplenty.
TAKE A RIDE
... on the KL Transit, the cheap, air-conditioned six-line elevated railway system that traverses the city. Fares start from RM0.70 (£0.10).
TAKE A HIKE
Not all of KL's heritage has been obliterated in the race for modernity. Directly opposite the east side of Masjid Jamek station (7), you can see the beautiful Art Deco Bank Bumiputra building (8), the former radio HQ and KL's answer to Broadcasting House. Head south, pausing to admire the old Gian Singh building (9), and head down Lebuh Ampang. This leads into Market Square (10), with its fine collection of elegant 20th-century buildings; look out for the Art Deco OCBC building on the south-east corner. Continue south along Jalan Hang Kasturi and you reach Central Market (11) - which narrowly avoided demolition in the 1980s and is now a handicrafts centre.
LUNCH ON THE RUN
Jalan Alor (12) used to be the red-light district of KL, but has morphed into a popular place to eat, boasting plenty of (mainly Chinese) hawker stalls. If you're not sure what you want there'll probably be a hostess who's eager to explain what's on offer. Nasi goreng (fried rice) is always a good option and shouldn't cost more than RM4 (£0.50). The area livens up after dark.
WINDOW SHOPPING
From Maharajalela station (13) follow the big sign at the bottom of the stairs for Chinatown. After about a minute you'll see a big overhead sign for Jalan Petaling. Brace yourself: as soon as you step over the threshold you'll be accosted by hawker-stall owners who sell everything from shirts (pay no more than RM20/£2.50) to CDs (the usual deal is three for RM10/£1.25). The road was recently given a grand glass roof, which successfully keeps out some of the heat.
To combine shopping with rollercoasters, head to Berjaya Times Square (14) , where you can whizz around in Cosmo's World Theme Park aboard the Supersonic Odyssey (00 603 2117 3118; 10am-10pm daily, RM25/£3.50).
AN APERITIF
The trendiest area is Asian Heritage Row (Jalan Doraisamy). Start with a daquiri at The Loft (15) at 34-40 Jalan Doraisamy (00 603 2691 5668). Then move to thatindianthing (16) at 52 Jalan Doraisamy (00 603 2698 6357; www.thatindianthing.com) for pint-sized margaritas and fabulous Indian cooking that may entice you to stop for dinner.
DINING WITH THE LOCALS
Jalan Walter Grenier (17) features a fantastic row of restaurants that serve mainly Chinese food. Restoran Mohamed Abbas (8 Jalan Walter Grenier, 00 603 2143 4980) serves wonderful spicy tom yam soup for RM4 (£0.50).
SUNDAY MORNING: GO TO CHURCH
Most Malays are Muslims, but in this diverse culture many faiths are represented. In KL terms, the Anglican St Mary's Cathedral (00 603 2692 8672), dating from 1887, is an antique: it stands in a quiet corner of Merdeka Square (18).
OUT TO BRUNCH
Head to the Lot 10 Mall (19) on Jalan Bukit Bintang where you'll find the Dome restaurant (00 603 9200 3438; www.domecafe.com.my) by the entrance. It boasts outdoor air conditioning, which has to be felt to be believed. Try the puff pies, or several of their super-indulgent cakes.
CULTURAL AFTERNOON
Get a taxi to Muzium Negara (20) on Jalan Damansara (00 603 2282 6255; www.museum.gov.my; 9am-6pm daily; RM2/£0.28). The first-floor section on the insects of Malaysia is good. After that, head to the immaculate Islamic Arts Museum (21) on Jalan Lembah Perdana (00 603 2274 2020; www.iamm.org.my). It has some fine Islamic artefacts, and is open 10am-6pm daily except Mondays; RM8 (£1)
A WALK IN THE PARK
Drop in at the world's largest covered bird park (22) at 920 Jalan Lembah Taman Tasik Perdana (00 603 2272 1010; www.birdpark.com.my; 9am-7.30pm daily).
THE ICING ON THE CAKE
KL's proudest edifice is 452m high: the Petronas Towers (23), once the tallest buildings in the world, are now the tallest matching pair of skyscrapers. At night they glow bright white. During the day, visit the 170m-high sky bridge at levels 41 and 42 (00 603 2331 1769; 8.30am-5pm, daily except Monday). Get there early - the first 1,300 visitors each day are allowed up for free.
KL - as it is invariably known - has blossomed from a colonial backwater into one of Asia's great cities. Yet amid the high-rises, you can still find a strong sense of history. And if food is important to you, the Malaysian capital offers sheer indulgence.
TOUCH DOWN
Malaysia Airlines (0870 607 9090; www.malaysia-airlines.com), flies daily from Heathrow and four times a week from Manchester to Kuala Lumpur International Airport (KLIA). Emirates (0870 243 2222; www.emirates.com) has connections in Dubai from Gatwick, Heathrow, Birmingham, Manchester and Glasgow. Thomson Worldwide can arrange two-night B &B packages at the Federal Hotel for £604 per person (0800 197 1917; www.thomsonworldwide.co.uk).
KLIA is 28 minutes from Sentral station (1) on the KLIAekspres; a one-way ticket costs 35 Malaysian ringgits (£5) (00 603 2267 8000; www.KLIAekspres.com). The bus (00 603 6203 3064) costs RM25 (£3.50) one-way, RM45 (£6.50) return. Taxis - pre-booked at the desk near the exit - cost around RM70 (£10).
GET YOUR BEARINGS
KL has several distinct districts, notably Chinatown, Little India and the historic quarter where the Klang and Gumbak rivers meet. The upmarket hotels and shops are in the "Golden Triangle" (between Jalan Sultan Ismail, Jalan Bukit Bintang and Jalan Ampang), with cheaper options around Chinatown. There is a tourist information centre (00 603 2274 3125; www.tourism.gov.my) at Sentral station (1). For details of what's on, pick up a free copy of PM (00 603 2297 0999; www.pmmag.com.my), which is available in hotels and restaurants.
CHECK IN
For luxury on the cheap try the J W Marriott (2) at 183 Jalan Bukit Bintang (00 603 2715 9000; www.marriott.com), part of the exclusive Star Hill mall. Doubles start at RM368 (£52), room only. The Renaissance (3), at the corner of Jalan Sultan Ismail and Jalan Ampang (00 603 2164 8877; www.renaissance-kul.com), offers a two-night weekend package without breakfast for RM224 (£32).
More modest accommodation can be found near Sentral station, at the YMCA (4) at 95 Jalan Padang Belia (00 603 2274 1439; www.ymcakl.com). A double here costs RM80 (£11), with breakfast.
TAKE A VIEW
The 421m high, Menara Kuala Lumpur (5) is the fourth-tallest telecommunications tower in the world (00 603 2020 5448; www.menarakl.com.my). The observation deck at 276m is open 9am-10pm daily; your RM15 (£2) ticket includes the loan of binoculars and an audio tour. While you're in the area, explore Kuala Lumpur's nine-hectare Bukit Nanas Forest Reserve, starting at the Forest Information Centre (6) at 240 Bukit Nanas (00 603 2616 4488; 7am-6pm daily; free). You won't spot a tiger, but there are exotic insects and plants aplenty.
TAKE A RIDE
... on the KL Transit, the cheap, air-conditioned six-line elevated railway system that traverses the city. Fares start from RM0.70 (£0.10).
TAKE A HIKE
Not all of KL's heritage has been obliterated in the race for modernity. Directly opposite the east side of Masjid Jamek station (7), you can see the beautiful Art Deco Bank Bumiputra building (8), the former radio HQ and KL's answer to Broadcasting House. Head south, pausing to admire the old Gian Singh building (9), and head down Lebuh Ampang. This leads into Market Square (10), with its fine collection of elegant 20th-century buildings; look out for the Art Deco OCBC building on the south-east corner. Continue south along Jalan Hang Kasturi and you reach Central Market (11) - which narrowly avoided demolition in the 1980s and is now a handicrafts centre.
LUNCH ON THE RUN
Jalan Alor (12) used to be the red-light district of KL, but has morphed into a popular place to eat, boasting plenty of (mainly Chinese) hawker stalls. If you're not sure what you want there'll probably be a hostess who's eager to explain what's on offer. Nasi goreng (fried rice) is always a good option and shouldn't cost more than RM4 (£0.50). The area livens up after dark.
WINDOW SHOPPING
From Maharajalela station (13) follow the big sign at the bottom of the stairs for Chinatown. After about a minute you'll see a big overhead sign for Jalan Petaling. Brace yourself: as soon as you step over the threshold you'll be accosted by hawker-stall owners who sell everything from shirts (pay no more than RM20/£2.50) to CDs (the usual deal is three for RM10/£1.25). The road was recently given a grand glass roof, which successfully keeps out some of the heat.
To combine shopping with rollercoasters, head to Berjaya Times Square (14) , where you can whizz around in Cosmo's World Theme Park aboard the Supersonic Odyssey (00 603 2117 3118; 10am-10pm daily, RM25/£3.50).
AN APERITIF
The trendiest area is Asian Heritage Row (Jalan Doraisamy). Start with a daquiri at The Loft (15) at 34-40 Jalan Doraisamy (00 603 2691 5668). Then move to thatindianthing (16) at 52 Jalan Doraisamy (00 603 2698 6357; www.thatindianthing.com) for pint-sized margaritas and fabulous Indian cooking that may entice you to stop for dinner.
DINING WITH THE LOCALS
Jalan Walter Grenier (17) features a fantastic row of restaurants that serve mainly Chinese food. Restoran Mohamed Abbas (8 Jalan Walter Grenier, 00 603 2143 4980) serves wonderful spicy tom yam soup for RM4 (£0.50).
SUNDAY MORNING: GO TO CHURCH
Most Malays are Muslims, but in this diverse culture many faiths are represented. In KL terms, the Anglican St Mary's Cathedral (00 603 2692 8672), dating from 1887, is an antique: it stands in a quiet corner of Merdeka Square (18).
OUT TO BRUNCH
Head to the Lot 10 Mall (19) on Jalan Bukit Bintang where you'll find the Dome restaurant (00 603 9200 3438; www.domecafe.com.my) by the entrance. It boasts outdoor air conditioning, which has to be felt to be believed. Try the puff pies, or several of their super-indulgent cakes.
CULTURAL AFTERNOON
Get a taxi to Muzium Negara (20) on Jalan Damansara (00 603 2282 6255; www.museum.gov.my; 9am-6pm daily; RM2/£0.28). The first-floor section on the insects of Malaysia is good. After that, head to the immaculate Islamic Arts Museum (21) on Jalan Lembah Perdana (00 603 2274 2020; www.iamm.org.my). It has some fine Islamic artefacts, and is open 10am-6pm daily except Mondays; RM8 (£1)
A WALK IN THE PARK
Drop in at the world's largest covered bird park (22) at 920 Jalan Lembah Taman Tasik Perdana (00 603 2272 1010; www.birdpark.com.my; 9am-7.30pm daily).
THE ICING ON THE CAKE
KL's proudest edifice is 452m high: the Petronas Towers (23), once the tallest buildings in the world, are now the tallest matching pair of skyscrapers. At night they glow bright white. During the day, visit the 170m-high sky bridge at levels 41 and 42 (00 603 2331 1769; 8.30am-5pm, daily except Monday). Get there early - the first 1,300 visitors each day are allowed up for free.
Wednesday, May 30, 2007
Malaysia Events
Thaipusam at Batu Caves
Thousands of Hindu devotees throng Batu Caves to pay homage to Lord Subramaniam during Thaipusam
When:
Feb 2008 (annual)
Where:
Batu Caves
Cost:
Free
Opening Hours:
All day
Every year, more than a million devotees gather at the Batu Caves - a spectacular site outside Kuala Lumpur - to celebrate the Hindu festival of Thaipusam. As well as taking part in a parade, many of the penitents express their devotion in ways which may well seem strange to outsiders.
Thaipusam commemorates the day when the Goddess Parvathi gave her son Murugan an invincible vel (lance), with which he vanquished the evil asura (demons). The festival starts with a procession through the town. A silver chariot carries the image of Lord Subramaniam, Shiva's youngest son, and people throw coconuts on the ground beside it.
The devotees then head for the Batu Caves, which are both a Hindu pilgrimage site and one of Malaysia's great natural wonders, with three main caves and hundreds of smaller ones. The Temple Cave, which contains shrines to the Hindu gods, has a vaulted ceiling 100 metres high. Below it is the Dark Cave - a two-kilometre (1.2 miles) network of caverns containing a large number of cave animals, including species found nowhere else in the world. (It's impossible to enter the Dark Caves without permission from the Malaysian Nature Society, and there are strict rules governing visiting times.) There is also an "Art Gallery Cave" containing statues and wall paintings depicting Hindu mythology.
Penitents atone for their sins and commemorate the giving of the vel by dragging kavadis ("burdens") up the 272 steps to the cave and depositing them at the feet of the deity. Devotees prepare themselves at the Batu River, praying and entering a trance-like state before donning the kavadis - metal frames weighing up to 50 pounds, attached to the carriers by steel hooks inserted into the skin of the chest, back and face. The more flamboyant put skewers through their cheeks or tongues to represent the vel, and a few young men make the journey up the caves with large steel hooks in their backs.
Altogether, this is probably one of the most incredible sights you'll ever see - although we don't recommend it for the squeamish.
Thousands of Hindu devotees throng Batu Caves to pay homage to Lord Subramaniam during Thaipusam
When:
Feb 2008 (annual)
Where:
Batu Caves
Cost:
Free
Opening Hours:
All day
Every year, more than a million devotees gather at the Batu Caves - a spectacular site outside Kuala Lumpur - to celebrate the Hindu festival of Thaipusam. As well as taking part in a parade, many of the penitents express their devotion in ways which may well seem strange to outsiders.
Thaipusam commemorates the day when the Goddess Parvathi gave her son Murugan an invincible vel (lance), with which he vanquished the evil asura (demons). The festival starts with a procession through the town. A silver chariot carries the image of Lord Subramaniam, Shiva's youngest son, and people throw coconuts on the ground beside it.
The devotees then head for the Batu Caves, which are both a Hindu pilgrimage site and one of Malaysia's great natural wonders, with three main caves and hundreds of smaller ones. The Temple Cave, which contains shrines to the Hindu gods, has a vaulted ceiling 100 metres high. Below it is the Dark Cave - a two-kilometre (1.2 miles) network of caverns containing a large number of cave animals, including species found nowhere else in the world. (It's impossible to enter the Dark Caves without permission from the Malaysian Nature Society, and there are strict rules governing visiting times.) There is also an "Art Gallery Cave" containing statues and wall paintings depicting Hindu mythology.
Penitents atone for their sins and commemorate the giving of the vel by dragging kavadis ("burdens") up the 272 steps to the cave and depositing them at the feet of the deity. Devotees prepare themselves at the Batu River, praying and entering a trance-like state before donning the kavadis - metal frames weighing up to 50 pounds, attached to the carriers by steel hooks inserted into the skin of the chest, back and face. The more flamboyant put skewers through their cheeks or tongues to represent the vel, and a few young men make the journey up the caves with large steel hooks in their backs.
Altogether, this is probably one of the most incredible sights you'll ever see - although we don't recommend it for the squeamish.
Tuesday, May 29, 2007
Fast Facts Kuala Lumpur
Fast Facts
The area code for Kuala Lumpur is 03, and the city's phone numbers have an 8-digit format. Numbers in the rest of the country only have 7 digits.
The main office for American Express is located in KL at The Weld, 18th floor, Jalan Raja Chulan (tel. 03/2050-0888). You'll also find headquarters for all Malaysian and many international banks, most of which have outlets along Jalan Sultan Ismail, plus ATMs at countless locations thought the city. Look for money changers in just about every shopping mall; they're a better bargain than banks or hotel cashiers.
KL's General Post Office, on Jalan Sultan Hishamuddin in the enormous Pos Malaysia Komplex Dayabumi (tel. 03/2274-1122), can be pretty overwhelming. If you can, try to use your hotel's mail service for a much easier time. Internet service in KL will run about RM3 to RM6 (80¢-$1.60) per hour for usage. Internet cafes come and go, popping up in backpacker areas like Chinatown and the streets around BB Plaza. A combination Internet cafe and business center, Yoshi Connection, is near the MTC at Lot 2.34, 2nd floor, Bangunan Angkasa Raya, Jalan Ampang (tel. 03/2143-2500).
If you have a medical emergency, the number to dial is tel. 999. This is the same number for police and fire emergencies as well.
The area code for Kuala Lumpur is 03, and the city's phone numbers have an 8-digit format. Numbers in the rest of the country only have 7 digits.
The main office for American Express is located in KL at The Weld, 18th floor, Jalan Raja Chulan (tel. 03/2050-0888). You'll also find headquarters for all Malaysian and many international banks, most of which have outlets along Jalan Sultan Ismail, plus ATMs at countless locations thought the city. Look for money changers in just about every shopping mall; they're a better bargain than banks or hotel cashiers.
KL's General Post Office, on Jalan Sultan Hishamuddin in the enormous Pos Malaysia Komplex Dayabumi (tel. 03/2274-1122), can be pretty overwhelming. If you can, try to use your hotel's mail service for a much easier time. Internet service in KL will run about RM3 to RM6 (80¢-$1.60) per hour for usage. Internet cafes come and go, popping up in backpacker areas like Chinatown and the streets around BB Plaza. A combination Internet cafe and business center, Yoshi Connection, is near the MTC at Lot 2.34, 2nd floor, Bangunan Angkasa Raya, Jalan Ampang (tel. 03/2143-2500).
If you have a medical emergency, the number to dial is tel. 999. This is the same number for police and fire emergencies as well.
Malaysia Top Vacation Destination
Malaysia remains top holiday destination
MALAYSIA tops the popularity chart with holidaymakers from Bahrain this year, with Turkey and the US hot on its heels.
Tens of thousands of people fly out of Bahrain to escape the summer heat, or to get home to see their families during the school holidays.
Heavy bookings for airline seats are given, but holiday trends shift with the times.
Malaysia may be the all-time favourite from here, but Turkey is cashing in on stop-over packages for budget travellers, as well as being a holiday destination in its own right.
"Turkey is the hot destination this year," says Vijay Menon, general manager of Dadabhai Travels.
Heavy bookings for the gateway between east and west are also reported by Manama Travel Centre tours manager Pamela Murdoch.
"Turkish Airlines probably boasts the cheapest fares of any carrier flying out of Bahrain into Europe, via Turkey. So people reckon that if they're going via Turkey, they might as well stop off for a few days," said Ms Murdoch.
The US is making a comeback, with the lure of Disneyland in Orlando, Florida and the weak dollar proving major attractions.
"We've had a number of families and honeymooners opt for Orlando and Disneyland this year," says Kanoo Holidays tourism manager Zall Koohpaima.
Orlando and the US have always been popular with outbound tourists from Bahrain, the numbers dwindled after the terrorist attacks of September 11, 2001 with the tightening of entry regulations into the country.
"But now it's popular again," said Mr Koohpaima.
He cites the weak US dollar as another reason for the US' resurgence as a tourist destination for Bahrainis.
"Florida is certainly one of the top destinations this year," said Al Fanar Travels tourism executive Mustafa Moti. But all the travel agents the GDN spoke to stressed that all-time favourite, Malaysia, was still the big draw. The country still remains the top spot for tourists from Bahrain.
But it's not always land-based breaks that court the attention and wallets of travellers.
Cruises are also proving popular.
"We've seen a huge spurt in people going on cruises this year. Especially Caribbean cruises," says Mr Menon.
This is a trend also confirmed by Mr Moti.
"We've had a number of inquiries and bookings for Mediterranean cruises and also some rather unusual ones for Baltic cruises," he said.
Most travellers are sticking to popular destinations, but Ms Murdoch sees a rise in travellers heading into Russia, Belarus and Finland.
So how is everyone getting to where they're going?
Qatar Airways is the airline of choice for those flying out of Bahrain, according to Mr Koohpaima and Mr Moti.
MALAYSIA tops the popularity chart with holidaymakers from Bahrain this year, with Turkey and the US hot on its heels.
Tens of thousands of people fly out of Bahrain to escape the summer heat, or to get home to see their families during the school holidays.
Heavy bookings for airline seats are given, but holiday trends shift with the times.
Malaysia may be the all-time favourite from here, but Turkey is cashing in on stop-over packages for budget travellers, as well as being a holiday destination in its own right.
"Turkey is the hot destination this year," says Vijay Menon, general manager of Dadabhai Travels.
Heavy bookings for the gateway between east and west are also reported by Manama Travel Centre tours manager Pamela Murdoch.
"Turkish Airlines probably boasts the cheapest fares of any carrier flying out of Bahrain into Europe, via Turkey. So people reckon that if they're going via Turkey, they might as well stop off for a few days," said Ms Murdoch.
The US is making a comeback, with the lure of Disneyland in Orlando, Florida and the weak dollar proving major attractions.
"We've had a number of families and honeymooners opt for Orlando and Disneyland this year," says Kanoo Holidays tourism manager Zall Koohpaima.
Orlando and the US have always been popular with outbound tourists from Bahrain, the numbers dwindled after the terrorist attacks of September 11, 2001 with the tightening of entry regulations into the country.
"But now it's popular again," said Mr Koohpaima.
He cites the weak US dollar as another reason for the US' resurgence as a tourist destination for Bahrainis.
"Florida is certainly one of the top destinations this year," said Al Fanar Travels tourism executive Mustafa Moti. But all the travel agents the GDN spoke to stressed that all-time favourite, Malaysia, was still the big draw. The country still remains the top spot for tourists from Bahrain.
But it's not always land-based breaks that court the attention and wallets of travellers.
Cruises are also proving popular.
"We've seen a huge spurt in people going on cruises this year. Especially Caribbean cruises," says Mr Menon.
This is a trend also confirmed by Mr Moti.
"We've had a number of inquiries and bookings for Mediterranean cruises and also some rather unusual ones for Baltic cruises," he said.
Most travellers are sticking to popular destinations, but Ms Murdoch sees a rise in travellers heading into Russia, Belarus and Finland.
So how is everyone getting to where they're going?
Qatar Airways is the airline of choice for those flying out of Bahrain, according to Mr Koohpaima and Mr Moti.
Monday, May 28, 2007
Kuala Lumpur Malaysia
Referring to Kuala Lumpur's penchant for outsized construction projects, management guru Peter Drucker once asserted that Malaysia was "committed to building the world's most disagreeable city. They're building megalomaniac skyscrapers, the biggest mosque, and the biggest traffic jams." Recession has put the brakes on KL's more ambitious projects, such as a riverine shopping/office complex that would have been the world's longest structure. But the home of the 88-story Petronas Towers - the world's tallest building - still manages to feed its edifice complex. In July, a sparkling new international airport opened south of the city. A 20-hectare park that includes $1 million worth of elaborate playground equipment also debuted next to the Towers. Such amenities can ameliorate but not eliminate complaints that air pollution and traffic congestion have eroded the quality of life in recent years. Adding to tension in 1998 is ongoing unrest over the economy and the arrest of former deputy prime minister Anwar Ibrahim. A Saturday shopping trip downtown in the past few months has sometimes meant running a gauntlet of demonstrators and police barricades.
After the protests end, residents will still have to cope with service shortcomings that belie the city's metropolitan veneer. Rapid growth and industrialization have produced sporadic water shortages. New treatment plants are on fast-track construction schedules, but a larger problem is neglected infrastructure - in Malaysia, some 40% of treated water is lost before reaching homes because of leaky pipes, broken mains and illegal diversion. The fouling of rivers that form the backbone of KL's supply is the primary culprit. "Until the public changes its perception of the river as a backyard rubbish dump, the problem . . . will always be there," says Rozali Ismail, chairman of the company in charge of the city's water supply. It could be a hard habit to break. After all, Kuala Lumpur means "muddy confluence." One proposal might do the trick. Ibrahim Saad, the minister for Kuala Lumpur, has called for polluting companies to be closed down.
After the protests end, residents will still have to cope with service shortcomings that belie the city's metropolitan veneer. Rapid growth and industrialization have produced sporadic water shortages. New treatment plants are on fast-track construction schedules, but a larger problem is neglected infrastructure - in Malaysia, some 40% of treated water is lost before reaching homes because of leaky pipes, broken mains and illegal diversion. The fouling of rivers that form the backbone of KL's supply is the primary culprit. "Until the public changes its perception of the river as a backyard rubbish dump, the problem . . . will always be there," says Rozali Ismail, chairman of the company in charge of the city's water supply. It could be a hard habit to break. After all, Kuala Lumpur means "muddy confluence." One proposal might do the trick. Ibrahim Saad, the minister for Kuala Lumpur, has called for polluting companies to be closed down.
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